2017年3月31日星期五

opuradio's product

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Clarion 6 Disc CD Changer Mechansim with exact PC Board 039-3058-20 for 2010-2012 Ford Mustang CD Player MP3 FoMoCo Stereo Satellite Radio AR3T-19C158-AL BB BC F-150 Truck BL3T-19C157-BA


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How to Install Car Speakers

The stock speaker systems that come in many new cars are, to put it simply, are often lousy. Luckily, not only are after-market speakers a relatively cost-effective way to boost your car's audio capabilities, but also are generally easy to install (though the sheer number of speakers available means that some will be more difficult to work with than others). See Step 1 below to start learning how to install a new set of trunk-rattling speakers in your car!


Preparing to Install New Speakers

 Selecting New Speakers

1、Look at the stereo system you are installing your new speakers on. Some systems are simple stereo audio systems that have limited wattage and two or four channels, so 100 watt speakers, or adding 8 or more just won't make sense. Trying to push too many speakers can, in fact, cause the quality of the audio to be diminished, or even damage the stereo. 

2、 Check the dimensions of the existing speakers so minimum modifications will be needed to fit the new ones in. Speakers come in different shapes and sizes, so a planning to mount a replacement speaker, knowing if the original was a 6X9 inch oval rather than a 4 inch (10.2 cm) round one will help choose the best fit.

3、 Consider quality. Speakers with composite or fabric cones are usually noticeably better than those with paper, and ceramic permanent magnet speakers will out-perform wound electromagnetic speakers at the same power level. 

4、 Select speakers with trim packages you like. You may find many different styles and colors of trim and covers in a similar price range, so it makes sense to pick the ones that look good, not just sound good.

5、Look at the electronic characteristics of your speakers. Some have inline resistors to prevent static and crosstalk, some allow wiring in a series circuit configuration to allow you to add woofers and tweeters where you need them, and some can only be wired terminally to maintain the correct system impedance. 

6、 Consider the power requirements of your new speakers as it will affect the wiring. High wattage speakers may not be able to perform with the factory wiring, and changing these to a larger size may mean considerable work, since factory wiring is concealed in hard to reach places. 

 

 Getting Ready to Install Your Speakers

1、Gather your tools. As noted in the intro, there are thousands of possibilities available when it comes to after-market speakers. Because of this, any single list of tools is likely to be insufficient for installing some speakers and redundant for others. The tools you'll need to install your new speaker system will probably include most of the following, but are not necessarily limited to these

  • A variety of screwdrivers (flathead, phillips head, etc.)
  • Wire cutters/strippers
  • Crimping tool
  • Allen wrenches
  • Socket wrenches
  • Hobby knife
  • Soldering iron (and solder)
  • Electric drill
  • File
  • Torx driver
  • "Panel popper" tool
  • Electrical tape
2、 Ensure that the speakers you've chosen fit your car. Many after-market speakers will fit into the spaces for the stock speakers, while others will require minor modifications, like the installation of a mounting bracket, the drilling of new screw holes, etc. Be sure to take this into account when you buy your new speakers - the installation processes for differently-sized or shaped speakers can vary in difficultly.
  • Note that many speaker retailers offer online tools for determining which of their products best "fit" your car.
3、 Prevent electrical damage by disconnecting your car's battery. As with nearly all types of electrical work, it's important to protect yourself and the electrical system before beginning. Disconnecting the battery's negative terminal prevents the risk of injury from electric shock or damage to the car's electronics through short circuiting, so be sure to do so before tampering with any of the car's internal electronics.

4、 Defer to any instructions provided with your new speakers. Since there's so many different types of speakers available, it's nearly impossible to write a how-to guide that will perfectly cover all of them. The instructions below are highly generalized and may not apply to every single set of speakers on the market. Whenever necessary, defer to the instructions included with your speakers, as these will be specifically suited to your unique product.



Installing New Speakers

 

1、Take any panels or speaker grilles off. Nearly all speakers in the interior of a car will be covered with some sort of protective paneling or grill. Before the speaker can be modified or replaced, this barrier must be removed. Pry the grill off with a suitable tool, like a flat head screwdriver, removing any bolts or screws that are holding it in place if necessary.
  • The work you'll have to do to access your car's factory speakers will vary from car to car. In worst case scenarios, for example, you may need to remove seats, crawl into the trunk to access important bolts or wires, or even  remove entire door panels  to gain access to the speakers.
2、 Remove the factory speaker. Note that the speaker is usually, but not always, attached to a wiring harness, so take care not to rip it out when removing it. You may also find that you need to unscrew one or more small bolts and/or chip at any adhesive foam or glue that's holding the speaker in place.
  • If you think you'll need to re-install the factory speakers in the future (for instance, if you sell the car), don't forget to save any screws that you remove!
3、 Connect the new speaker to the car's electrical system. Usually, connecting your new speaker is a fairly simple matter of plugging your speaker's wiring harness into the car's wiring harness. However, if your car doesn't have this simple type of connection, you may need to connect your speaker with a soldered or crimped connection.
  • Make sure you match the polarity of the car and speaker's connections. Usually, the speaker's positive terminal is the larger of the two and is marked with a "+" or a small dot.
  • Electrical tape can be a risky choice for wire connections, especially in the dashboard, as changes in temperature can weaken the tape and lead to problems down the road.
4、 Test the speaker. Now that you've connected your speaker, it's important to test the connection so that you don't have to waste time later to fix a problem. Re-connect the battery's negative terminal and turn on the car's radio or stereo. Listen for sound coming out of your new speaker or look for visible vibrations at high volumes. If your speaker won't work, this means that there is a problem with its electrical connection.

5、 Secure the new speaker. Once you're confident that your speaker works properly, secure it in its seat in the door or dash. If you're lucky, your new speaker will fit in the factory speaker's housing. However, your speaker may require the installation of a specially mounting bracket (usually included with the speaker itself), drilling new screw holes, and/or using adhesives to hold the speaker in place. Refer to the instructions included with your speaker.

6、 Install and test any subwoofers.Subwoofers are responsible for the ultra-low, "booming" bass sound that some car owners idolize. If your car came with factory subwoofers, installing new woofers can be as easy as seating them in the existing housing and connecting them to the car's wiring harness. If your car didn't come with factory subwoofers, however, or you'd like to install additional ones, your task may be much harder. You may need expand your stock woofer's existing mounting holes or make significant modifications to the car to house large woofers. For instance, many people who want to add multiple woofers to their car custom-install a panel in the trunk to house the woofers.
  • Subwoofers often have fairly large power demands and complicated wiring schemes. You may want to buy and install a separate amplifier wiring kit to simplify the process of wiring your subwoofers.
    • If not, you may need to connect the woofer directly to the battery and the car's stereo and ground the woofer manually.
 7、Install and test any tweeters. As with woofers, tweeters, which produce high-pitch frequencies, can be easy or difficult to install based on the factory components of your car. If your car came with tweeters, you may only need to install the new ones in the existing housing and connect them to the existing wiring harness. If, however, there are no spaces to install the tweeters, you may need to make your own (or expand existing ones, use a mounting bracket, etc. if existing housing is insufficient). Luckily, tweeters are much smaller than woofers, so the adjustments you'll need to make will be minor in comparison.
  • As with woofers, if your car didn't already have any tweeters, you may need connect the tweeter directly to the battery and stereo and ground the tweeter to the car's body.

8、Replace all panels and speaker grilles. When all the components of your new speaker system have been installed, tested, and securely mounted in the car, you may replace any speaker grills or panels that you had to remove to install the speakers. Make sure you've kept any screws that you had to remove to take the grill or panel off so that you're able to re-secure them properly.
  • Congratulations - your new speaker system is ready to use!

2017年3月25日星期六

opuradio's product

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Uconnector 8.4 SRT touch screen VP4 NA CMC N4 RA4 for Jeep Grand Cherokee Naigation Radio Audio Media Phone XM AUX USB Version 13.19.0





Learn How To Install A Car Radio

I love my new 2005 Ford Mustang coupe, but stock radio's flat, bass-less sound and distortion at high volumes left the audio enthusiast in me wanting more. Sure, I could have opted for the dealer upgrade when I bought the vehicle, but I wanted to choose my own components instead of leaving the decision up to Ford.

I wanted my dashboard to look like a console from the Starship Enterprise.
I wanted to be enveloped in crystal clear sound with crisp highs and full mid-tones.
I wanted a rich, ground-trembling bass that shook the sidewalk as I cruised with the volume cranked.

What I didn't want was a $500 invoice from the car audio professional who'd install my sophisticated new system (and then another $500 invoice to extract my components if I sell the car). So, against the better judgment of the audio experts I consulted, I took up the challenge to install a sophisticated car audio system--complete with GPS navigation, a DVD player, an iPod connection and a Blue Tooth hands-free mobile phone kit, all controlled by a 7-inch touch screen--on my own.
It looked like a daunting job, but I learned that upgrading your car stereo is not as complicated as it seems. If you follow my advice--which is based on my mistakes--you can avoid ending up like I did, frustrated, sweaty, out of speaker wire and almost out of patience.

MAKE A PLAN

Before you start turning the screwdriver and ripping into your dashboard, set aside time to plan out the entire installation process. It wasn't until I was looking at a colorful fistful of stock radio wires--with no wiring diagram for reference--that I realized my confidence--er, haste--wasn't going to get me anywhere (it turns out that the 50 feet of speaker wire I assumed would be more than enough for a tiny Mustang, is about three feet short when you finish all the splicing, meaning I had to rerun all the wiring.

I'm not kidding about this. If there's one piece of advice you have to follow it is this: Read through each component's instructions to create a master installation plan. Know what you have, where each piece is going to go, and what extra tools it will take to connect everything. Make sure that you're confident that once you pull apart your dashboard you'll be able to fit it back together. Check literature about your car to make sure you don't need extra adapters such as a custom radio faceplate, or, especially with older or imported vehicles, to make sure there are no non-standard components behind the radio (such as a separate amplifier buried deep within the console) that might greatly complicate the process. Finally, get a big piece of paper and draw a diagram that details where every wire will run. This will organize your thoughts and uncover any potential problems.

In addition to all your new equipment you're going to need wire cutters, black tape, crimpers, pliers, screwdrivers, a rubber mallet, a drill, a Dremel, a ratchet set, flashlight, wire tubing, double sided tape and wire tires to get the job done.

STEP 1: Replacing the Head Unit

When purchasing a head unit (the in-dash radio that controls your system), make sure you chose the appropriate size for your car. Head units are sized as single-din (a 180 x 50 mm panel) or double-din (180 x 100 mm panel) and you can often purchase an adaptor plate to fit a single-din unit in your double-din vehicle. The opposite was true for my car: I installed a double-din 7inch touch screen head unit, the Kenwood DDX-6019 available at www.Kenwood.com. Keep in mind that depths, although largely standard, could vary, so pay attention to how much space you have.

To make the installation much easier, you should also purchase a wire harness designed specifically for your vehicle's make and model. This will save you from having to cut any wires inside your dash, and, trust me, that's well worth the $20 you should expect to pay for a harness. Before you begin to disassemble your dash, you can splice the new wiring harness to your new radio by matching wire colors and descriptions. Also attach Kenwood's add-on Ipod control interface (KCA-iP500) and navigation system (KNA-G510) following the product's simple instructions. Once the harness is connected, the rest of the job is plug-and-play. You can find the correct harness and instructions at www.Crutchfield.com.

 Armed with your master plan, carefully remove the dashboard components surrounding your radio by removing any set screws or hex bolts securing the fairing and carefully pulling the component away from the vehicle. You should see a couple of set screws holding in the stock radio. Remove these, and slide out the old head unit.

A confusing collection of colorful wires should follow the stock radio. Disconnect these by carefully prying apart the wiring harness connection that connects the stock radio to the vehicle. The harnesses can be tough to pull apart, but with some wiggling it will eventually separate. Disconnect the radio's antenna connection and set the old head unit aside (don't throw it out--if you want to keep your new system when you sell your car, you'll eventually need to re-install the old radio).

I decided to install a Parrot 3200 LS-COLOR hands free kit, which is best done when you're reinstalling the radio head unit. This connects my bluetooth cell phone to the sound system. I can hear calls through the speakers and talk using the supplied microphone. It auto-mutes the music when a call comes in, and it interfaces with the head unit via another wiring harness, making installation very easy.

Next, connect the antenna cable, and slide in your new head unit. But before you start screwing the radio into place, turn on the car and test your connections. If you don't get any sound, or the radio refuses to turn on, or the sound is reversed (right speakers play the left track, or the front speakers play the rear track, etc.) the culprit is likely a faulty splice in the wiring harness. Pull out the radio and recheck your connections.

If all you're doing is swapping out you radio, follow your system's instructions to fully secure the head unit and put your dashboard back together. You're done. Enjoy your new system.

 Don't let the mess of wires scare you.
 If you plan out your installation you wont have to cut a single wire in the car! It's simple--just Plug-and-Play.
 When installing a new radio, use a wiring harness.
 Here is a close up of the after market harness(left) and the radios harness(right).
To connect the aftermarket wiring harness to the new radio, match the clearly marked wires to the ones on the harness, then twist and crimp.

 On the right is what your connections should look like when all the wires are properly crimped.

STEP 2: Powering Your System
 
The easy part is over--things are about to get tougher. This is where your install diagram is crucial. Your entire audio system is going to be powered through your amp, so make sure to choose one that has enough juice and supports as many channels as your system needs. The Mean-Machine MM 8000.5 amp is where I will be making all manual connections--no harness or plug and play quick-fixes here. Pick a spot to install the amp that you can reach with both hands easily. The amp needs to breathe, so while it can be mounted almost anywhere, the best location is the trunk--and never mount an amp upside down. To make things a little easier, purchase an amp-install kit--it's an all inclusive package to get your amp powered up.

Let's get started. The amp's main power lead needs to be connected directly to the battery. For safety reasons disconnect the battery's negative wire from its post. Then using the supplied ring terminal, connect the power wire (usually blue if using an aftermarket kit) with the fuse holder directly to the battery positive post. Leave out the fuse until the install is complete and ready for testing. Run the power wire through the fire wall (look for pre-existing holes or routed wires that you can run it along). The power must be run on the opposite side of the signal (RCA) cables to prevent signal noise, which would sound like a dentist-drill in the background of the music. If there is no hole in your fire wall and you have to drill, make sure to avoid any of your car's vital components.

Next connect the amp to the head unit's preouts (RCA inputs) located on the back. On the Kenwood's deck there were three preouts: front, rear and sub. Connect, following standard color codes (red for left and white for right). While you're connecting the preouts, also connect the amps turn-on lead. The turn on lead does exactly what the name implies--it's the amps on/off switch, turning the amp on every time the receiver in use.

To get the wires to the amp, bundle and tuck them under the doors sill and back seats, all the way to the trunk. Use wire ties and electrical tape to fasten your bundle to any preexisting wires along the way.

On to connecting the amp's ground. The ground wire is short and the same gauge as the power. It must be connected to the bare metal of the chassis or frame. Find a near by bolt and sand or scrape away any paint. Secure the ground wire using the ring terminal supplied in your amp kit. If you have to use a screw, watch where you're going and use a short screw--you don't want to hit your gas tank.

 For safety, disconnect the negative battery terminal before connecting the amp's power lead.
  Look for pre-existing holes through which you can route the amps power wire through the firewall.
 Clearly marked preouts on the back of the radio connect to the amp (in the trunk).
 Tucking your wires under the door trim hides the wires nicley.
 The rca cables from the radio connect to the left side of the amp.

The ground wire connects to a bolt in the trunk via a nut a lock washer. Remember to sand around the hole--the ground needs to touch bare metal.

STEP 3: Install Your Speakers And Sub

The speakers (and subwoofer) make the system. A great set can make even a stock radio sound great yet selecting a good set requires more than just comparing specs. Get out into show rooms and find a set that matches your acoustic preferences--this is not the time to settle.

After many hours of in-store testing, I selected the MB Quart line by Maxxonics. MB Quart has been developing and manufacturing speaker systems for more than 30 years and they've learned a thing or two about audio production in that time--they turned my car into a sound experience. Here are the specs:

SPECS

* Front/Back speakers model #QSD 213
* Woofers with die-cast aluminum chassis
* and WPC-coated polypropylene cone with neodymium magnet
* 1" tweeters with two-piece titanium dome in metal housing with neodymium magnet
* Q crossover with selected high-quality
* components and variable four-level tweeter output
* Bi-wiring and bi-amping enabled
When selecting speakers consider this: are you just replacing the stock system or do you want to do a custom job? I went with a 4x1 custom system because I didn't want to rip apart my doors to replace the factory speakers. To solve this, I used Q-Logic's Q-Forms Kick Panel speaker enclosures that discreetly and unobtrusively hold the MB Quart's QSD 213 front 5-1/4 inch speakers at the drivers and passenger's feet while directing their sound in the right direction.Q-Forms are available for over 500 different model cars, come in multiple colors to match your interior and are indistinguishable from the factory finish. Q-Logic also made a custom subwoofer enclosure that fits the 12 inch MB Quart's DWG 304 perfectly. It tucks the bass-box neatly into the passenger's side rear-well, saving cargo space, which, in a sports car, is particularly valuable.

When the speakers and subwoofer are in place, route the wires back to the amp. For the front speakers, run the wires on the same side as the signal cables and turn-on lead that you ran earlier. Make sure to hide the wires for the rear speakers somewhere in the trunk as they're the only components that are wired by themselves.

For better sound, the MB Quart speakers came with crossovers. A crossover is a device that restricts and separates the range of frequencies sent to the speaker. I mounted four crossovers (one per speaker), in the trunk near the amp for easier connection. Connect each speaker's woofer and tweeter (+/-) terminals to the corresponding OUTPUT terminals on the crossover. Now connect the amp's output terminals to the INPUT on each of the crossovers. It might sound complicated, but if you follow the manufactures' instructions carefully, the improvement in sound is well worth the time, labor and extra speaker wire. After the wires are routed, speakers are mounted and the subwoofer is in place, follow the diagram provided with the amp for the correct hook up.

Lastly, hide all wiring as best as possible. Use electrical tape, wire ties and tubing to conceal your work. And don't get rid of that diagram just yet--put it somewhere safe in the car. In case you have a problem later on it will be easier to pull that out than trying to remember! Now install the fuse, turn on the car and see how she sounds.

STEP 4, FINAL STEP: Hit the Road, Tune in Your Favoirite Station and Crank Up the Volume

After a few days of sweat, some minor cuts and a little aggravation, I'm finally done. Every time I ride in my Mustang, I'm reminded that the endeavor was worth it, even though I took much longer than I thought it would--if you plan your project properly, it should take about eight to ten hours to complete.

 The orignal panel was held on by clips. One tug and it was off.
 The speaker wires are routed under the door sill and through Q-logic kick panel. Note: there are 2 sets--one for the woofer, and the other for the tweeter.
 The MB QUART sitting pretty. Both sides were done in 20 minutes.
 Q-logics custom sub box fits in the right side of the rear wheel well of the trunk.
 The combination of MB Quart's subwoofer and Q-logics sub box not only looks good, it preserves trunk space.
 The crossovers have 3 sets of wires: One connects to the woofer, one to the tweeter and the last connects to the amp.
 Clean up your wiring using electrial tape, wire tubing and zip ties.
 Don't install the fuse until you're ready to test the system.
 Here is the right side of the amp with the wires connected.
 The amp, fully connected, is installed on top of the removable floorboard/spare tire cover.

2017年3月18日星期六

opuradio's product


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How to Remove a Stuck CD from a Car CD Player

Dash-mounted CD players in cars present unique problems when CDs become stuck - because they're installed into the car itself, you can only manipulate, poke, and otherwise handle them from one angle, unless you're willing to remove and disassemble the player itself. Thus, stuck CDs in cars can be a particularly annoying problem. Luckily, a variety of DIY fixes exist for this common headache. Note, however, that, if done improperly, some of these fixes can damage your player (or the CD stuck in it). The advice in this article shouldn't be a substitute for the opinion of an automotive expert. See Step 1 below to get started.

Using the Power and Eject Buttons

1、 Turn the car off. Some CD players have a "force eject" function that's specifically designed to get CDs out when other methods have failed. Because this method doesn't require you to tamper with your CD player in any way, it's smart to start here - you have nothing to lose if it doesn't work. First, turn your car off if it isn't already. 

2、 While the car is off, hold the power and the eject button.  Press your CD player's power and eject buttons down at the same time, holding them for about ten seconds. If your stereo has a "force eject" feature, it should spit out the CD. 

3、 If this doesn't work, start the car and try again. Some CD players may not function when the car is turned off. For these players, try pressing and holding the power and eject buttons while the car is running. 

4、Consult the player's manual. The power + eject button combination is one common "force eject" command, but many CD players may require different button inputs to eject a stuck CD. If you still have it, consult your CD player's owner's manual, which should include information on this and other functions that can help you retrieve your CD. 

 

Using an Extra CD

1、 Grab a blank or useless CD. This method involves inserting a second CD into the player, so, to prevent damage to a beloved album, try to procure a blank CD or one that you otherwise don't care about.

  • Turn the CD player on before proceeding. If this requires you to start the car, then start the car and turn the CD player on.
  • Note: This method, like several others in this article, carries the risk of damage to the stuck CD or the player itself. Use caution when inserting any foreign objects into your CD player. If you're ever worried about damaging your CD player, stop and take your problem to a professional.
2、 Place the second CD about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the slot. Your CD should be above the stuck CD. With luck, you'll be able to feel the stuck CD slide beneath the one in your hand.

 
3、Press the 'Eject' button and gently wiggle the CD around. By doing this, you are attempting to give the stuck CD traction against the mechanism that the player uses to eject it.[1] If you feel the stuck CD start to eject, to care to ensure that it doesn't become sandwiched between the second CD and the edge of the CD slot.
  • If this doesn't work, repeat, but try to get the blank CD below the the jammed CD, then gently pry it upwards. CD players can differ in their precise ejection mechanism, so sometimes upward pressure can be more successful in giving the ejection mechanism traction on a stuck CD than downward pressure.
4Apply pressure to the unit. Sometimes, applying pressure to the unit itself can help the stuck CD gain traction. If the player is mounted in such a way that it's near the upper surface of the dashboard, you may have success repeating the steps in this method while pressing or gently but firmly smacking the area of the dashboard above the player.
  • Note that, while some have had success by banging on the dash, this can damage delicate components of the center console, so it is not recommended if your car has a GPS, etc. between the CD player and the top surface of the dashboard.

Performing an Electrical Reset

 1、Write down your radio presets and audio settings. This method is useful when you can't remove a CD because your CD player will no longer turn on. This method involves disconnecting, then reconnecting the electrical supply to the CD player. For most CD players, this means that any radio presets you've set will be erased and your personal audio settings will be reset to their defaults. If you're an avid listener of music in your car, make sure you record your personal settings so they can easily be restored afterward. 

2、 Turn the car off and open the hood. When manipulating or altering your car's electrical system, it's important to ensure you're not in danger of electrocution. Turn the car off and remove the keys from the ignition, then open the hood for access to the battery. 

3、 Disconnect the battery's negative terminal. The negative terminal on a car's battery is colored black, while the positive terminal is colored red. Carefully disconnect the negative terminal. Some terminals may require you to use a small wrench or pliers to loosen a nut before removing the wire connection.

4、 Wait 10 seconds, then reconnect the terminal. After reconnecting the terminal, tun the car on and try to eject the CD as normal. Disconnecting then reconnecting the CD player's power supply can cause the CD player to "reset" to its factory default, which, in some cases, can restore its ejection functionality. 

5、If the CD player still won't turn on, replace its fuse. Check your owner's manual - often, a car's fuse box will be behind a panel somewhere on the driver's side of the dashboard. Disconnect the battery, remove the fuse box's protective covering, then, consulting your owner's manual, replace any of your CD player's fuses that may have blown. 


Using a Taped Knife or Stick

 

1、Reduce electrocution risk. In this method, you insert a long, flat knife or similar object directly into the CD player. Knives made from metal conduct electricity, so, if you have an object made from wood or plastic that will work (like, for instance, a popsicle stick), use it. If not, be sure to disconnect all power supplies from the CD player and make sure any electrical charge has been removed. Turn the car and the CD player off and disconnect the negative terminal of your car's battery.
  • Note: As with other methods described in this article, this method carries the risk of damage to the stuck CD or the CD player itself. If you don't want to put your property at risk, take your car to a trained automotive professional.
2、 Wrap tape (sticky side out) around the end of a putty knife (or similar object). Use a strong tape like Gorilla tape for best results. Putty knives are typically tapered so that if you wrap the tape tight enough, it will not slide off the end. If you're using another object, like a popsicle stick, which doesn't taper, you may need to stick the tape to the object, wrap it around several times, then put a twist in the tape and wrap it around several more times to make sure the tape is adequately secured to the object.

 3、Stick a thin piece of paper on one side of the knife. Because your knife (or stick, etc.) is now covered with sticky tape, it can be difficult to insert it into the CD player. To make this process easier, use paper to make one side of your knife smooth. Stick a small piece of printer or construction paper onto your knife. Trim the paper with scissors so that it matches the size and shape of the knife.

4、 Insert the knife into CD player, sticky side down. Delicately wiggle your knife to feel for the top of the CD. Press down gently to get the tape to stick to the CD. When you feel that your knife is stuck to the CD, gently try to lift and remove the CD.


Using a Plastic Card and Screwdriver

 

1、Reduce electrocution risk. As above, disconnect all power supplies from the CD player and make sure any electrical charge has been removed. Turn the car and CD player off and disconnect the battery's negative terminal.
  • Note: If done improperly, this method may scratch or otherwise damage your CD and/or CD player. As always, use caution, and, if you're ever in doubt, contact an auto repair expert.
 
2、Grab a stiff plastic card, like a drivers license or credit card. For this method, you want a card that's thin but sturdy. Use an expired credit card or a similar object - preferably, one that's not important, in case you lose it or it breaks. Stick double-sided scotch tape on one side of the card, near the edge of one of the two narrow ends.
  • Alternatively, you can use single-sided tape, sticking the tape to the card, putting a twist in it, then wrapping it around the card several times.
 
3、Grab a thin-stemmed flat head screwdriver. This method, though similar to the putty knife method above, differs in that it uses a screwdriver to assist with sticking the card to the CD. You'll want a fairly short, thin flat head screwdriver. Use a screwdriver that's as thin as possible, as you'll need to partially insert it into the CD slot. 
 
 
4、Insert the card into the slot ABOVE the stuck CD (sticky side down). You may need to use the screwdriver to guide the card, ensuring it goes in above the CD and does not stick to the CD until after you get 12 to 34 inch (1.3 to 1.9 cm) of the card in. 
 
5、 With the card inserted, slide the screwdriver above the card. Use the screwdriver to gently press down on the card. This should cause the tape on the bottom side of the card to stick to the top side of the stuck CD.
 
 
6、Remove the screwdriver, then slowly pull the card out. With luck, the CD should come with the card. If not, try repeating the previous steps.

 

 

2017年3月11日星期六

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